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- Corvin Castle – History carved in stone
When you hear Romania, you think of Dracula, wild Carpathian Mountains, and lonely villages. What many people don’t know is that the country is a paradise for campers—rugged, warm, and honest. We set out to experience it for ourselves. From the Hungarian border to the Danube, our journey was more than just miles on a map—it was an encounter with a country that still takes freedom literally.
After days on Central European roads, where every no parking sign shines brightly, entering Romania felt like a breath of fresh air. No “permit required,” no “no parking.” Instead, fields, forests, and people who wave when you stop. Our first stop: a small reservoir near Târcea, surrounded by rolling hills and mirror-smooth water. A place where time passes more slowly. We parked the camper on the shore, pulled out the awning, cooked spaghetti with scampi – and ended the day in the golden evening light. Romania had us from the very first moment.
Between shepherds and asphalt dreams
The next morning, we were awakened not by an alarm clock, but by a flock of sheep. The shepherd nodded friendly, let us take his picture—and disappeared again into the sea of stubble. This is how the day begins in Romania: without hustle and bustle, but with real life. Our route took us further south – past villages with colorful gates, women wearing headscarves like my grandmother used to wear. She wore it through the village, summer and winter – practical, simple, and full of dignity. In these moments, Romania felt strangely familiar, almost like a journey into my own childhood. Old and new Dacias rattled past – cars that tell a story rather than shine, and somehow seem as indestructible as the country itself.
Marghita, Huedin, Cluj-Napoca – names that sound like stops on a map, but are actually little adventures. In Huedin, we marvelled at the palaces of the Roma families: roofs like icing, facades of chrome and fantasy. You either love them or hate them – but they are unmistakable. They show what pride means when you have earned it.
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- Encounter in the field – Shepherd
Greetings from Dracula: Corvin Castle
Destination of the day: Hunedoara. We rumbled along the country road toward the Transylvanian Alps, where Corvin Castle towers above the landscape—one of the largest medieval fortresses in Europe. Just looking at it, you can understand why it is shrouded in myth. Behind the scaffolding and crowds of tourists lies a history steeped in power and blood. Vlad Țepeș, the “Impaler,” is said to have been imprisoned here – whether true or not, it doesn’t matter. The castle breathes history, in every stone, every vault, every gust of wind through the battlements. With the castle app in hand, we delved into the gloomy corridors, saw torture chambers and armories, and stood on the drawbridge where knights once rode. It’s a place that gives you more goosebumps than comfort – but that’s exactly why it remains unforgettable.
After so much history, we desperately needed some refreshment – and found it at
Popasul Castelului restaurant, not far from the castle. The shaded terrace smelled of garlic, paprika, and freshly roasted meat. We ordered Tochitură de porc, a traditional pork dish with polenta, fried eggs, and spicy sauce—hearty, honest, typical Romania. Accompanied by ice-cold mineral water, we felt that after a day full of impressions, we were doing exactly the right thing: just sitting, enjoying ourselves and listening to the babble of voices of the locals.
Freedom by the river – wild camping on the Strei
After the hustle and bustle of the castle, we were drawn back out into nature. On the Strei River, near Bacia, we found a place that you don’t plan for – you just find it. A meadow, a tree, a river, silence. No neighbors, no electrical boxes, no roads nearby. Just the steady murmur of the water, drowning out everything else that usually fills your head. While my son splashed around in the water, I sat down on the bank, dangled my legs in the cool water, and watched the light dance on the surface. Later, we had beans with peppers and fried eggs – Romania on a plate. In the evening, a calm descended over everything that was almost tangible. Only the river continued to tell its story. It was one of those moments when you wonder why you ever traveled any other way.
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- River landscape in the Streital valley
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- Turning maneuver on the forest road near Hațeg
Adventure navigation: cow pastures instead of satnav routes
A few days later, we got to know the rustic side of Romanian navigation. Google Maps guided us through cow pastures, muddy passages, and fences—at one point we found ourselves standing in the middle of the forest, eyed by mother cows. Turning maneuvers in 15 steps, my son as my guide—family teamwork that replaces any off-road training.
When we finally had asphalt under our tires again, it felt almost luxurious. Our first stop after that: Hațeg. There we had breakfast Romanian style—langosch with garlic and cheese. Not healthy, but divine.
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- Campers on the banks of the Danube near Maglavit
Destination Danube: under a tree that needs no advertising
We drove south on the E79, through the Jiu Valley, past rocks, monasteries, and villages. The landscape changed from wild to wide, from mountains to plains. In the afternoon, we reached Maglavit – and found it: the tree. A single tree on the banks of the Danube, a shady spot with a view of the water. We parked the camper underneath it, took out the table and chairs – and knew: we’re staying here.
The Danube glided calmly by, the sun turning the water golden. A few fishermen, a light breeze, nothing else. The police drove by twice – not a word, no problem. Wild camping is allowed in Romania as long as you remain respectful. For us, it was the epitome of freedom: no campsite, no check-in, no time constraints. Just us, the river, and the most beautiful sunset of this camper trip.
Wild camping is generally permitted in Romania as long as you treat nature and people with respect. However, national parks and nature reserves, such as the Danube Delta, are an important exception – camping is expressly prohibited there and can be punished with severe penalties. But if you follow the rules and show consideration, you will be welcomed in many places throughout the rest of the country with open landscapes and warm serenity.
Conclusion: Romania – wild, warm, authentic
Romania is not a country for perfectionists. Roads end abruptly, maps are unreliable, and even the Wi-Fi has a mind of its own. But that’s precisely what makes it so appealing: authenticity instead of glitz and glamour. Those who are willing to embrace this will find a travel destination full of surprises, history, and encounters.
In Romania, we not only saw landscapes, but also met people who gave us smiles without wanting anything in return. And we realized that freedom is not a luxury – it is a decision. Romania reminds you how that feels.
Those who prefer to combine this freedom with a little comfort will find numerous well-equipped places throughout the country – from the Carpathians to the Black Sea. A large selection and up-to-date information can be found right here at UIR-News at Campsites in Romania – Ideal for anyone who wants to plan their route but still remain flexible.
Hinterm Horizont rechts
Text & Images: Mario Hambsch
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- Sunset on the Danube
